Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2011 0:20:59 GMT -5
Biriyanis & Pulaos
________________________________________
From various historical journals & especially from Ain-I-Akbar, Journal of Jahan ara, the chronicles of Haqueem Abdullah of the court of Nawab Shiraz-u-dullah & later the writings of the chefs of the deposed ruler of Awadh during his exile in Calcutta we find the mention of numerous varieties of Biryani & Pulao.
It is this preparation of rice with meats & nuts that has seen maximum improvisations. The Subedars & Nawabs of places distant from the capitol & head quarters of the ruling Badsha in Delhi indulged in all sorts of epicurean pleasures. Great chefs were highly patronized & held as treasure at the palaces of them. These chefs carried out relentless improvisation & often introduced radical changes by integrating local produces in pursuit of their passion as well as to please the kings for monetary gains.
A section of the Haqueems researched the medicinal properties of herbs & spices often driven by their masters to cook up potent aphrodisiacs. Many historians believe that Emperor Sha Jehan died of an over dose of aphrodisiac.
Here are some medical properties of various ingredients as found in the writings of Charak the father of Indian Auyrveda.
Onion:
Sweet in Rasa, enhancer of stamina, has anti arthritis properties, stimulates secretion of gastric juice,& imparts vitality.
Garlic:
Prevents heart diseases, helps in curing depilating fever & gastritis, contains anti-leprosy agents, prevents ring worms, improves respiratory function, helps in irritating cough.
Green Cardamom:
Bitter in Rasa, has cooling properties, has anti flatulent & anti piles agents.
Black Cardamom:
Bitter in Rasa, cleans bile duct, purifies blood, antidote to travel sickness & vomiting, fights various types of toxins, prevents oral irritation.
Cinnamon:
Sweet in Rasa, anti flatulent, cools the body, improves appetite & has astringent properties.
Bay leaves:
Sweet in Rasa, intestinal lubricant, good for cough, lack of appetite & piles.
Cloves:
Bitter in Rasa, good for eyesight, fights against Pyorrhea & other gum infections, has anti flatulent properties, soothes soar throat.
Mace:
Bitter in Rasa, good for cough & cold, vomiting, worms, anti toxin & slightly narcotic.
For good Biriyanis & Pulaos the quality of the rice used is very important. Long grained & non-sticky varieties, which are of absorbent nature so as to soak the ghee & the fats, are best suited for Biriyanis & Pulaos. It should be cooked in such a manner that each grain remains separate from others. The rice should be washed & dried before cooking. On a bright sunny day I often wash a good quantity of rice & add a bit of turmeric to a portion of it for making Khichdi & dry the stuff. I store these in airtight containers.
The most delicious of the long list of varieties are the following:
Classical Biriyani
Khaibari Jerbiriyani
Nurmahali Jerbiriyani
Shajahani Briyani
Katch chi Biriyani
Lokma Pulao
Habsi Pulao
Nurani Pulao
Mossabot Pulao
Kondan Pulao
Khorashani Pulao
Rista Pulao
Esnam khani Pulao……..the list is endless.
Apart from the meat based Pulaos there are some excellent vegetarian Pulaos like:
Jasmine Pulao
Green peas Pulao
Vishnu bhog(Pulao of ripe mangoes)
Orange Pulao
Rose petal Pulao
Here is the recipe for my favourite Biriyanis a meat based one & the other a vegetarian delight.
Khaibari Jerbiriyani
You need:
Mutton 1-1/2 kG. Choose a mix of cuts from the ribs, necks,& shoulders. A point to note regarding cuts is that the meat of the most exercised parts of the body is tasty. Therefore, the legs, necks,& the tails yield the best cuts.
Rice 800 gms
Ghee 2 cups
Natural Yogurt 250 gms
Ginger 75 gms
Black pepper 2 tablespoons
Coriander 3 tablespoons
Cumin seeds 1-1/2 spoons.
Dried onion seeds (Kalonji) 10 gms.
Bay leaves four leaves.
Cloves 5 nos.
Cinnamon 3 sticks
Cardamoms 5 nos.
Saffron a few strands dissolved in warm milk.
Salt & red chilies to taste.
Marinate the meat with Ginger paste, chilly & salt for 2 hours. The idea of adding the salt at this stage is to let the meat yield all the water in the tissues. Do not use metallic container not even stainless steel. I often use a plastic seal able pouch & turn it several times to expose all the surfaces to the marinade. It’s a good idea to keep the marinating meat in the refrigerator.
Make a paste of Cardamom, Coriander; mix the paste with half portion of the Yogurt. Coat the meat with this mix & keep.
In a pot with tight fitting cover, place the bay leaves & sprinkle the Cumin seeds, onion seeds, Cinnamon & black Peppers on these. Place the marinated meat on this bed. Throw in the Cloves evenly on the meat. Pour the Ghee on this & then the rice mixed with the balance Yogurt.
Cover the pot tightly & put on a very low flame. Let it cook slowly & try to hear the sound coming from the pot. Once the rice is cooked in the water released by the Yogurt & the meat you will hear the sound of frying & that is the time to turn off the heat & let it cook by it-self.
Use a stone mortar to grind the Saffron strands in the warm milk & pour it on the Biriyani & keep it covered for a while before serving.
Please do not laugh if I say that I have an old stethoscope, which I use to hear the sound coming from the pot.
Note that this preparation doesn’t use Onions & Garlics, I avoid these as far as possible to let the other spices & herbs do the magic.
Vishnu Bhog
You need:
Rice 800 gms.
Full cream milk 1-1/2 litres.
Ghee 120 gms.
Sugar 120 gms.
Sweet Mango pulp 750 gms. Alphanso or Langra variety is best.
Dry Sultanas 30 gms.
Seeds of black Cardamoms ¼ teaspoon.
Cinnamon 1 inch stick broken in to small pieces.
A little of ground Nutmeg.
Camphor & Saffron just a pinch.
Heat the Ghee in a pan & sauté the Sultanas & keep. Sauté the Cinnamon, Cardamom seeds & transfer the stuff on to a pot which has a tight fitting lid.
Place the pot on flame & add the rice. Fry the rice for a while & then slowly add the milk. Keep stirring, this is very important cause if the milk burns you have ruined the meal. Add the Nutmeg powder. After you have mixed all the milk, cover & cook on a very low flame.
Once the rice is cooked, slowly pour in the Mango pulp & sugar. Keep stirring gently now to avoid pulping the rice grains. Add the sautéed Sultanas, Camphor & the Saffron. Turn off heat cover & let it cool before serving.
________________________________________
From various historical journals & especially from Ain-I-Akbar, Journal of Jahan ara, the chronicles of Haqueem Abdullah of the court of Nawab Shiraz-u-dullah & later the writings of the chefs of the deposed ruler of Awadh during his exile in Calcutta we find the mention of numerous varieties of Biryani & Pulao.
It is this preparation of rice with meats & nuts that has seen maximum improvisations. The Subedars & Nawabs of places distant from the capitol & head quarters of the ruling Badsha in Delhi indulged in all sorts of epicurean pleasures. Great chefs were highly patronized & held as treasure at the palaces of them. These chefs carried out relentless improvisation & often introduced radical changes by integrating local produces in pursuit of their passion as well as to please the kings for monetary gains.
A section of the Haqueems researched the medicinal properties of herbs & spices often driven by their masters to cook up potent aphrodisiacs. Many historians believe that Emperor Sha Jehan died of an over dose of aphrodisiac.
Here are some medical properties of various ingredients as found in the writings of Charak the father of Indian Auyrveda.
Onion:
Sweet in Rasa, enhancer of stamina, has anti arthritis properties, stimulates secretion of gastric juice,& imparts vitality.
Garlic:
Prevents heart diseases, helps in curing depilating fever & gastritis, contains anti-leprosy agents, prevents ring worms, improves respiratory function, helps in irritating cough.
Green Cardamom:
Bitter in Rasa, has cooling properties, has anti flatulent & anti piles agents.
Black Cardamom:
Bitter in Rasa, cleans bile duct, purifies blood, antidote to travel sickness & vomiting, fights various types of toxins, prevents oral irritation.
Cinnamon:
Sweet in Rasa, anti flatulent, cools the body, improves appetite & has astringent properties.
Bay leaves:
Sweet in Rasa, intestinal lubricant, good for cough, lack of appetite & piles.
Cloves:
Bitter in Rasa, good for eyesight, fights against Pyorrhea & other gum infections, has anti flatulent properties, soothes soar throat.
Mace:
Bitter in Rasa, good for cough & cold, vomiting, worms, anti toxin & slightly narcotic.
For good Biriyanis & Pulaos the quality of the rice used is very important. Long grained & non-sticky varieties, which are of absorbent nature so as to soak the ghee & the fats, are best suited for Biriyanis & Pulaos. It should be cooked in such a manner that each grain remains separate from others. The rice should be washed & dried before cooking. On a bright sunny day I often wash a good quantity of rice & add a bit of turmeric to a portion of it for making Khichdi & dry the stuff. I store these in airtight containers.
The most delicious of the long list of varieties are the following:
Classical Biriyani
Khaibari Jerbiriyani
Nurmahali Jerbiriyani
Shajahani Briyani
Katch chi Biriyani
Lokma Pulao
Habsi Pulao
Nurani Pulao
Mossabot Pulao
Kondan Pulao
Khorashani Pulao
Rista Pulao
Esnam khani Pulao……..the list is endless.
Apart from the meat based Pulaos there are some excellent vegetarian Pulaos like:
Jasmine Pulao
Green peas Pulao
Vishnu bhog(Pulao of ripe mangoes)
Orange Pulao
Rose petal Pulao
Here is the recipe for my favourite Biriyanis a meat based one & the other a vegetarian delight.
Khaibari Jerbiriyani
You need:
Mutton 1-1/2 kG. Choose a mix of cuts from the ribs, necks,& shoulders. A point to note regarding cuts is that the meat of the most exercised parts of the body is tasty. Therefore, the legs, necks,& the tails yield the best cuts.
Rice 800 gms
Ghee 2 cups
Natural Yogurt 250 gms
Ginger 75 gms
Black pepper 2 tablespoons
Coriander 3 tablespoons
Cumin seeds 1-1/2 spoons.
Dried onion seeds (Kalonji) 10 gms.
Bay leaves four leaves.
Cloves 5 nos.
Cinnamon 3 sticks
Cardamoms 5 nos.
Saffron a few strands dissolved in warm milk.
Salt & red chilies to taste.
Marinate the meat with Ginger paste, chilly & salt for 2 hours. The idea of adding the salt at this stage is to let the meat yield all the water in the tissues. Do not use metallic container not even stainless steel. I often use a plastic seal able pouch & turn it several times to expose all the surfaces to the marinade. It’s a good idea to keep the marinating meat in the refrigerator.
Make a paste of Cardamom, Coriander; mix the paste with half portion of the Yogurt. Coat the meat with this mix & keep.
In a pot with tight fitting cover, place the bay leaves & sprinkle the Cumin seeds, onion seeds, Cinnamon & black Peppers on these. Place the marinated meat on this bed. Throw in the Cloves evenly on the meat. Pour the Ghee on this & then the rice mixed with the balance Yogurt.
Cover the pot tightly & put on a very low flame. Let it cook slowly & try to hear the sound coming from the pot. Once the rice is cooked in the water released by the Yogurt & the meat you will hear the sound of frying & that is the time to turn off the heat & let it cook by it-self.
Use a stone mortar to grind the Saffron strands in the warm milk & pour it on the Biriyani & keep it covered for a while before serving.
Please do not laugh if I say that I have an old stethoscope, which I use to hear the sound coming from the pot.
Note that this preparation doesn’t use Onions & Garlics, I avoid these as far as possible to let the other spices & herbs do the magic.
Vishnu Bhog
You need:
Rice 800 gms.
Full cream milk 1-1/2 litres.
Ghee 120 gms.
Sugar 120 gms.
Sweet Mango pulp 750 gms. Alphanso or Langra variety is best.
Dry Sultanas 30 gms.
Seeds of black Cardamoms ¼ teaspoon.
Cinnamon 1 inch stick broken in to small pieces.
A little of ground Nutmeg.
Camphor & Saffron just a pinch.
Heat the Ghee in a pan & sauté the Sultanas & keep. Sauté the Cinnamon, Cardamom seeds & transfer the stuff on to a pot which has a tight fitting lid.
Place the pot on flame & add the rice. Fry the rice for a while & then slowly add the milk. Keep stirring, this is very important cause if the milk burns you have ruined the meal. Add the Nutmeg powder. After you have mixed all the milk, cover & cook on a very low flame.
Once the rice is cooked, slowly pour in the Mango pulp & sugar. Keep stirring gently now to avoid pulping the rice grains. Add the sautéed Sultanas, Camphor & the Saffron. Turn off heat cover & let it cool before serving.
I heard, today, that Japanese Black Carp is widely eaten (in Japan) for its aphrodisiac qualities.... Carp of other colours are purely Ornamental!